SPALINGER S25 1:3.5

[cw]

Jigging up the inner wing panel to work out where to trim the spars...


Only one short 14mm wing joiner bar, as the struts will take all the bending loads...


I could not resist seeing what she looks like

[cw]

Time now to join the inner and outer wing panels. Although on a straight wing the spars would be laid horizontally, here they are fitted vertically to allow the greatest area for the glue to do its work at the gull join. (The spars are offset, with the outer spar sitting in front of the inner spar) Once the spars are epoxied together, triangular wedges of Spruce give even more area for the glue to work...

[Walter L.]

Chris,

what is the dimension of the spars at the joining point between inner and outer wing panel?


Best regards

Walter

[cw]

Walter, the spars of the inner panel are 12 x 6mm.
The outer panel 12 x 6 at the join, tapering to 6 x 6mm at the tip...

[cw]

After adding the bottom sheeting, the wing is jigged up my usual way to accept the top sheeting, after which the wing will be rigid...



Adding the capping strips to the inner panel...



The easy part is now over: I have been saving the difficult parts for last...

Airbrakes
Ailerons
Canopies
Wing/Fuselage fairing

[patte de loup]

Finaly , Chris , the <wing are in two parts? How do you manage the wing fairing , face to the sweep?
Do you realise a special canopies are adapt from your previous planes?
KR
Pat'

[cw]

Pat, I am not yet sure what I will do where the wings join the fuselage, but when I do, you will know too

I am hoping that my Flamingo or Skylark canopies will do the job: the ones in the photo aren't yet quite right..

[Miguel Gil]

Hello Crhis.
Once again congratulations for your excellent work.
After looking at the forum to build different systems "gull wings" to apply to my project (Moswey III) that best fits the limited space that I have is to build your system to make them into two parts and then join them. I've seen you've used in other aircraft, so I start to build the wings of my glider this way and I hope I go nearly as well as yourself.
Regards,
Miguel.

[cw]

Miguel, it's fairly straightforward... good luck with your build, and if you need to ask questions, be my guest

[cw]

It is time to finalise the wing joiner arrangements... This means going out in the COLD!
I dislike rigid wing mounting methods because a heavy landing on the slope always means something is going to get bent or broken. The wings are mounted to the joiner box with individual 14mm steel bars. The bars are bent forward to accommodate the sweep-forward of the spars. Four sets of rubber bands will hold the wings to the fuselage, but will allow it to move in the event of a heavy landing. The struts will take most of the bending loads...

[jean claude Crétal]

Magnifique construction comme d'habitude Chris

[GARCIA]

c'est beau !!
José

[cw]

This last week has been airbrake week
I have used the same system I used with the Steinadler and the Topaze



The servo is glued to a 1.5mm plywood tray


A slot is created with 1.5mm balsa and ply


The ply plate is fixed with a single screw for easy removal


It was a lot of work as usual, but now I can move to the next phase...

[cw]

I an using my modified method of making the ailerons that I used for the first time on the Flamingo. First, the Leading Edge is made up and hinged to the wing with Robart hinges. (Yes, the full-size has Frise ailerons, but I prefer to keep things simple ) Reverse templates are made up from the Compufoil rib files and temporarily cyanoed to the wing to support the Trailing Edge. Then, the ribs can be added and you know everything will be straight and true...

[Grandemago]

Félicitations Chris, excellent travail, très belle création!

Daniel

[cw]

Unbelieveable...! It stopped raining yesterday, and on a weekend, too
This gave me the chance to set up the Spalinger outside and start work on the wing root/fuselage bits & pieces...

[cw]

Another dry saturday...! Today I continued with the wing-fuselage join...

[cw]

I spent the whole day today making up temporary struts and finalising the centre section fairing. This body filler is excellent for our purposes, being easy to sand and therefore closer to the density of wood...

[cw]

Moving on now to the cockpit canopies. It looks as though two of my Skylark 4 canopies will do the job

[cw]

Still working on the canopies...

[VincentB]

Whaoo, I love this design, very original and funny this nose and canopy

[Anonyme]

Quite an original look this glider, with this canopy

[patte de loup]

I 'm in hurry for seeing in flight
KR
Pat'

[cw]

Time to tidy up the rear end and start cutting out Solartex...


The rubber band system seems to work well: I have dropped her from about 40cms to the ground, and the wings jump out and spring back again...






I'm in hurry for seeing in flight

Moi aussi, Pat...

[Anonyme]

So am I !!!!

[Orionis]

For the next glider, I think you'll have to remain to this scale or buy your neighbor's garden!

[cw]

Now the 1st wing is covered in Solartex Natural...

[Anonyme]

Hi Chris, nice picture, I like the aspect of the solartex I have used for the first time on the Mü3, thanks Chris

[cw]

Yes Marc, Solartex is so easy to use

But how to stick the 'Tex to the underside of the ribs? This is what I do:
1: Prick holes in the fabric with a blunt pin
2: Fill holes with ultra-thin CA (Wipe off excess with a cloth)
3: Finish off with 'Tex rib tapes

[Anonyme]

thanks for the trick, useful on very curved intrados ribs